Fun with Fetch

As my mom recently said in her facebook note, I have never learned how to fetch. When I was a puppy, I thought it was fun to run away from her with the toy. She did, too. 10 years later, she still can't break me of that habit. I love a good game of keep away. I'll play it her way two or three times and then I expect her to play it my way two or three times. It seems only fair.

So how do you avoid this dilemma with your own dog? First of all, no matter how great the urge, do not chase your dog. Don't do it during play. Don't do it when they've run off with the remote. And pass that message along to everyone in your family.

Then, when you're teaching your dog to play fetch, get him excited about the toy. When he's interested, give the toy and run backward, patting your legs or clapping your hands to get him to run to you. When he does, praise and reward by playing tug with the toy.

Toss the toy a few feet away. Don't toss it far at first. Build up to that. When your dog runs for it, praise and begin to run backward again. If your dog comes back with the toy, reward by continuing the game. If not, end the game and try again next time. To make the toy more exciting, pick it up when the game is over.

If your dog isn't willing to drop the toy, practice a drop it command with toy like objects. Tennis balls are easiest, but identical tug toys or stuffed toys can work as well. When your dog comes back with one, say "drop" and then produce the other toy. When the dog drops, praise and toss. Repeat until your dog can drop without seeing the other toy. Then, you can phase out the other toy. You can also have your dog trade you the object for a treat, always a crowd pleaser in this house, but it may not work if your dog prefers the ball to the treat. I don't understand it, but those crazy dogs do exist!

If your dog already has some bad habits, you can use these methods to reverse some of the damage. But, like me, your dog might not always be willing to comply. Have fun!

Love, Muggsy

Calm the Dog Down

Since I was a 6-week-old puppy abandoned on my mom's yard, I have been extra calm. For whatever reason, maybe genetics, I never got so bored that I had the urge to chew the carpet away from an entire wall (Muggsy) or tear up the kitchen floor (Muggsy) or chew a hole through the wall (Muggsy). I was content to sleep. My bursts of energy never last longer than a minute and are entirely predictable: meal times, just before a walk and the moment I grow weary of my parents playing with Fenway.

However, most of you won't get that lucky. I shouldn't have to remind you that I am a one-of-a-kind genius. Most of you will get stuck with a Muggsy. And for some reason, most of my mom's clients are not comforted when she tells them their adolescent golden will calm down a little sometime between the age of 2 and 3. She just read a long article about steps to take to calm your dog, and most of her clients wouldn't be comforted by those either. They have jobs and kids and lives, and most don't set aside as much time as it requires to teach an overactive dog how to calm down.

So here are a few tips for calming your dog that we hope won't take too much of your busy schedule:

1. This isn't exactly a training tip, but research breeds before getting a puppy. Don't impulse buy. Find out what the exercise requirements are for this dog and don't buy if you don't have that kind of time. There are many low energy dogs, especially if you want to adopt older dogs.
2. Exercise, exercise, exercise! Most dogs need at least two 40 minute sessions of full blown running daily in their adolescence. Don't think you have time for this? You'd be surprised. Jogging with the stroller? Take your dog. Many dogs who don't walk well can run surprisingly well, especially if you take a little time to train them. Instead of feeding in the food bowl, throw a piece of kibble down the hall and make your dog chase it. Do this with each piece of kibble. It won't take as long as it sounds. Do this with a tennis ball or toy. Play hide and seek. Hide treats in the yard for your dog to hunt. Be creative. You can find ways to exercise and stimulate your dog.
3. If your dog is getting the proper amount of exercise, use timeouts for unruly behavior. Don't ever tolerate nipping, chewing or crazy zooming that knocks over all the house plants. Keep a small leash on your dog when you are home, and use that leash to lead your dog calmly to a timeout area, such as a bathroom, gated area or crate. It's not punishment if you aren't angry. It will just allow your pup to relax. Let him out when he's calm.
4. Teach your dog a "wait" command and use it liberally. Teach "wait" at a door, on a bed or anywhere you can find a boundary. For example at the doorway, dog on a leash, say "wait." Take a step back but hold up your hand like a stop sign. If your dog moves forward, step into him purposefully so he will be forced back. Repeat this until your dog can stand calmly while you take a step back. Reward and release (such as "ok" or "go free.") Practice until you can walk several steps from your dog.
5. Use the wait command for everything. Wait until your dog is calm before letting him have his food bowl. Wait until he calm before you pet him. Wait until he is calm before you put a leash on him for a walk. Wait until he is calm before you let him walk out the door. He must be calm to get anything he likes.
6. When you see your dog being calm on his own, reward him. Give him a treat or sit next to him on the floor and give him the good belly rubs. So often dogs get attention when they are acting up and get ignored when calm. Switch that thinking!

Not all of you will be so lucky as to get a Chubbs as your next pet. However, with a little consistency and patience, your dog might come closer to achieving that level of perfection. Good luck!

Love, Chubbs

Accepting Strangers

It has been well-documented in this blog that I don't like new people. According to my mom, I'm not the only one. Many dogs are afraid of new people and don't really want a stranger reaching over their heads to pet them. So how do you get your dog to interact with strangers?

In 2009, my mom taught me how to touch. While this trick in itself can be a huge benefit with reactive dogs, giving them something else to do when they want to bark, it can also teach them to interact with regular visitors.

Once your dog can confidently touch, either with the nose or paw, sit next to someone you want your dog to get to know. Allow your dog to sit on the side opposite the scary person and have him practice touch with you. Keep the sessions short and allow your dog to escape when he gets too nervous. This is a really difficult skill to learn, so sessions shouldn't be any longer than a few minutes. Give lots of treats!

Once your dog can do this easily, start the next session the same way, but have the strangers hand touching yours. Your dog will still be touching your hand, but your hand will be connected to the stranger. Again, keep sessions only a few minutes and reward with your dog's favorite treats.

When your dog is comfortable at this level, allow the stranger to put his/her hand on top of yours so your dog is actually touching the stranger's hand. Treats and commands still come from you.

After your dog can comfortably excel at this level, move your dog into the sit position in front of you rather than beside you. This will move him closer to the stranger, so if he isn't quite ready yet, slow down. Move back to step one where your dog touches your hand, not the stranger's. Continue at this level until your dog is comfortable and then add the stranger's hand again, first underneath yours, then ontop of yours. Commands and treats still come from you.

Once your dog has successfully touched the stranger's hand ontop of yours sitting in front of him/her, you're ready to repeat all of the steps but with the stranger giving the commands and treats. So begin with your dog sitting at your side, touching your hand, but when commanded by the stranger, who will then give the treat. Work through all of the steps again (this may move more quickly than the first time) before letting your dog interact with just the stranger. If your dog ever gets frightened, you're moving too quickly.

Only once your dog can interact with the stranger happily in this way can the stranger ever try to pet your dog. And remember, not over the head! Encourage the stranger to pet the chest or sides of your dog first.

I know you're all afraid of me, but if anyone wants to work through these steps with me, let my mom know. She's always looking for me to make new friends. I, on the other hand, would prefer if you all would just leave me alone. (And take Chubbs with you!)

Love, Muggsy