Saturday, December 31, 2011

Why Not Wag?

It's hard being the first blog written after Mom used it as a tribute to Muggsy, but someone has to do it. Since Chubbs is being kind of a bummer recently, the job falls on me. I'd rather just sleep on the couch, but Mom read something that interested me recently, and I thought I would share.

In Scott and Fuller's classic study, "Genetics and the Social Behavior of the Dog," they studied rate of tail wags in response to stimulus. Several breeds were evaluated, and the only breed that didn't wag as much as others? That's right, the basenji, 1/2 of who I am. However, they also found that when properly stimulated, basenjis did wag as much as the other breeds. So what does this mean? We're more difficult to stimulate. We might not get excited by the same things your golden retriever gets excited about.

My mom hears it all the time: "My dog doesn't like treats." "My dog doesn't play with toys." "My dog doesn't like praise." Do you have a dog that is difficult to stimulate? Well, be creative!

Make a list of things that your dog loves. If your list is shorter than five things, you're not trying hard enough. For example, my brother Chubbs isn't easily stimulated either. The woman who trained my mom said he had less "drive" than any dog she'd ever seen. But he has one toy that he loves: a stuffed parrot that says, "Polly wanna cracker!" My mom let him pick it out at the store, and he carries it around and sleeps next to it at night. He doesn't get that excited by praise either, but when my mom says, "Chubba! Who's my Chubba?!?" in a really loud squeaky voice, his tail thumps all over the place.

What about me? I don't like to be pet, but I love to be scratched on my chest. I love toys, and I can make anything into a toy. My parents have played with me using blankets, clothing and even their hands. I don't like to chew, just pretend to attack. It's great. I also love to sniff. So if I walk politely on leash, my mom rewards me with lots of sniffs.

My mom has had plenty of clients whose owners think they don't like treats, but when she offers them a liver treat or other meaty treat, they gobble it up and follow her the whole lesson. So experiment. Try different treats. Mix them up rather than giving the same thing all the time. Try different types of toys. Don't leave them lying on the ground. Bring them out only when you want to play so they are more special to your dog. Use a happier voice when you praise. Maybe your dog doesn't like to be thumped on top the head but love a soft belly rub.

Try to make that list of things your dog LOVES at least a dozen things long. Only include things that make your dog wiggly, tail waggly, happy, happy, happy. Then, make your dog earn those things with proper behavior. Your dog will be motivated to work in no time.

Happy training! Love, Fenway

Monday, October 24, 2011

A Good-Bye to my Baby

Dear Muggsy,

All I have left of you is a tiny footprint sitting on my mantle. You always had such tiny feet. That's how they convinced me you were a terrier mix, even though you grew to 85 pounds. It's amazing all that you carried on those tiny feet during your 10 years of life. When you crawled into my lap and looked into my eyes, I knew you could really see me. You were the first to really see me, I think, and I know there were many times that you carried me on your tiny feet, making sure I was safe and happy. I always knew you would protect me, no matter what the cost, and I hope I made you feel protected as well.

When you started showing signs of severe fear, I didn't know what to do. But that led me to a new career that would ultimately land me in graduate school. I even talk about you in my personal statement. I can't talk about who I am without mentioning you. I'm not sure who I am without you. I guess figuring that out is the next phase of my life.

When we were young, my expectations were high. I wanted you to be the type of dog everyone wants: friendly, fearless, obedient. But what I got was so much better. I got a dog who was sensitive, insightful and discriminatingly loving. You tried so hard to be the dog that I wanted you to be, but in the end, all I wanted was all you were. I will miss the way you ran into my room when I was blowdrying my hair, wagging your tail, showing me that you could be brave. I love the way you looked angrily at me from behind that muzzle but still did exactly what I told you to do at the vet. I loved that look of hope in your eyes when I put on my shoes or put food on the table. I will miss the look in your eyes any time you looked at me. You were so expressive. You always knew what I was thinking and saying, even though it sounds ridiculous for a dog trainer to say that. I will miss your crooked ears, and the way they perked up every time I talked to you. Those ears are in my training logo, and they are in my heart, making a place where no other dog can quite fit.

Dog trainer Melinda will always say: Don't talk to your dog. Teach him commands. But you know the truth: how I talked to you like a human and believed that you heard me every time. When I lived at Moore Creek, you used to run out the door, and I'd have to chase you down the street. That day when I caught you, I held you and said, "Please don't ever do that to Mommy again. You scared me." And you never did. Even though I never trained you to wait at the door. I would talk to you before every vet visit, every pet sitter, every vacation. You always listened. And you always did what I asked. I know you were a once-in-a-lifetime dog. As much as I love him, Chubbs does not have your abilities. I can't imagine having another dog that does.

A few weeks ago, my mom told me that you were my greatest success. But I am yours as well. You taught me to be compassionate and understanding. You taught me to embrace my loved ones, even with their faults, and love them through whatever they are going through, even if I don't understand. You taught me to be strong. You taught me that we all make mistakes, and then we get up and try again tomorrow. You helped me grow into the kind of person I have always wished I could be. And for the rest of my life, whenever I start to feel down about myself or put pressure on myself to be perfect, you will be in my heart, wagging your tail, reminding me that I'm perfect just the way I am. Just as you were.

Last night, as you were breathing your last breaths, I'm so grateful that I was there to tell you I loved you. Just before that, you looked up at me while I was reading to you and gave me that look of understanding. You knew I was trying to be strong for you. And you were trying to be strong for me when you walked into the bathroom so we could spend those last few moments together the perfect way: just the two of us, no interruptions, just as it should have been. I will always feel cheated that you only lived 10 years and that you died within a week of your diagnosis without us ever getting to know what was wrong. I will probably cry every time I walk into this bathroom, where I held you for the last time. I will be angry and hurt. But I will always feel blessed that I got to spend 10 years with the most truly wonderful being in this world. I will wake up every morning and get out of bed to try again. That's what you taught me, and I will be true to your memory.

I love you, Muggsy. I will always love you. No one will replace you. Because, after all, you're my wonderwall.

Good-bye, Buddy 'Ims. You're better than the world. You're better than an armrest. You're my best friend. Love, Mom

Sunday, August 7, 2011

Fun with Play III: Loose-Leash Walking

It has been well-documented on this blog that I do not like to loose-leash walk. I'm always excited and forget the rules. Whenever we go to a new place, I always pull a little, and Mom has to stop and wait for me to calm down. Once when we went to a therapy test, one of the test's administrators recommended that Mom start making crazy left turns on our walks to keep me guessing, requiring me to check in more. While this would look crazy as we walked down the street, it was actually good advice. You can teach loose-leash walking through games, just as you can teach recall through games, as discussed in the previous article.

To make loose-leash walking a game, fill your pockets full of treats. Put a treat in front of your dog's nose and lure him into a loose-leash position at your side. Take a step. When your dog steps toward your hand, praise and reward. As your dog gets better, take a couple of steps, then three and four. Then, start making it really fun: take a step backward, make left turns and right turns, zig zag, take big steps then small steps, spin in circles, walk in squares, run quickly then walk slowly. Your imagination is the only limitation. Keep rewarding your dog frequently so that he stays entertained, but stop using a lure once he understands the game. Use a point or word command to advance the training.

Just a couple of tips for this. Keep the games short. Loose-leash walking is hard for us! It's not instinctual. We have to think about it. Have you ever noticed how tired your dog is after a simple walk when learning to walk on a loose leash? We're thinking about it the whole time, and thinking makes us tired. So when your playing, it won't be fun if the game goes on too long. And don't forget to release your dog from a heel position if you have used "heel" as the command word. How does your dog know when the command has ended if you don't tell him? Then, he will think he can end it when he wants and begin pulling again. So gradually increase the amount of time the game happens and give your dog a clear end.

Now, go out and take a fun walk with your dog! Love, Chubbs

Tuesday, July 5, 2011

What? What?

As I have grown older, within the last few months actually, I have started to go deaf. It took a little while for my parents to even realize it because it can be something that happens gradually and may not be obvious. Dogs are very adaptable and can use their other senses but there can definitely be some challenges in training and managing a deaf dog.

Signs that your dog might be going deaf include:
  • inattentiveness or change of personality
  • inability or confusion during training
  • excessive barking (if this is unusual for your pet)
  • difficulty waking up
  • excessive head shaking or tilting
  • any change in personality
For me, my parents began to notice when I quit responding to commands but would respond to hand signals. At first, they thought I was getting stubborn in my old age, but I also wouldn't respond to things like "treats" or "walk," some of my favorite words! The clincher was when I wouldn't wake up during meals (when my brothers won't leave the sight of the table) and when my parents got home. I can now sleep through anything.

Dog ears are very similar to people ears, so dogs can be born deaf or grow deaf as they get older. As with me, health problems can speed the process along. I have always had allergies and ear infections, which probably contributed to my hearing loss.

If you have a deaf dog, or one who is slowly growing deaf, here are some tips to consider:
  • Never let a deaf dog run off leash. He can't hear cars or other dangers, and he can't hear you when you call. Things he once did he may no longer be able to do. Sucks, I know.
  • Teach your commands with hand signals. Fortunately, my mom did this originally (she loves hand signals for sooo many reasons!), so I can still easily respond when I see a familiar sign, even if I didn't hear the word.
  • Never startle a deaf dog. She may snap or bite. Warn children not to wake her. Teach her to respond to a flashlight or visual cue if you want her attention. Try waking her with food under her nose or a light touch near her rear.
  • Alert him that you are leaving each time so as not to create separation anxiety. If you suddenly disappear when he's sleeping and he doesn't hear you, this could be very scary for him when he wakes up.
  • If you have a large yard or house, consider putting a bell on your dog so she's easier to track down.
Deaf dogs do present additional training challenges, but they aren't untrainable, as many people believe. Just be patient and use clear hand signals. Challenging dogs can also be fun! Love, Fenway

Thursday, May 19, 2011

Fun with Fetch

As my mom recently said in her facebook note, I have never learned how to fetch. When I was a puppy, I thought it was fun to run away from her with the toy. She did, too. 10 years later, she still can't break me of that habit. I love a good game of keep away. I'll play it her way two or three times and then I expect her to play it my way two or three times. It seems only fair.

So how do you avoid this dilemma with your own dog? First of all, no matter how great the urge, do not chase your dog. Don't do it during play. Don't do it when they've run off with the remote. And pass that message along to everyone in your family.

Then, when you're teaching your dog to play fetch, get him excited about the toy. When he's interested, give the toy and run backward, patting your legs or clapping your hands to get him to run to you. When he does, praise and reward by playing tug with the toy.

Toss the toy a few feet away. Don't toss it far at first. Build up to that. When your dog runs for it, praise and begin to run backward again. If your dog comes back with the toy, reward by continuing the game. If not, end the game and try again next time. To make the toy more exciting, pick it up when the game is over.

If your dog isn't willing to drop the toy, practice a drop it command with toy like objects. Tennis balls are easiest, but identical tug toys or stuffed toys can work as well. When your dog comes back with one, say "drop" and then produce the other toy. When the dog drops, praise and toss. Repeat until your dog can drop without seeing the other toy. Then, you can phase out the other toy. You can also have your dog trade you the object for a treat, always a crowd pleaser in this house, but it may not work if your dog prefers the ball to the treat. I don't understand it, but those crazy dogs do exist!

If your dog already has some bad habits, you can use these methods to reverse some of the damage. But, like me, your dog might not always be willing to comply. Have fun!

Love, Muggsy

Monday, May 9, 2011

Calm the Dog Down

Since I was a 6-week-old puppy abandoned on my mom's yard, I have been extra calm. For whatever reason, maybe genetics, I never got so bored that I had the urge to chew the carpet away from an entire wall (Muggsy) or tear up the kitchen floor (Muggsy) or chew a hole through the wall (Muggsy). I was content to sleep. My bursts of energy never last longer than a minute and are entirely predictable: meal times, just before a walk and the moment I grow weary of my parents playing with Fenway.

However, most of you won't get that lucky. I shouldn't have to remind you that I am a one-of-a-kind genius. Most of you will get stuck with a Muggsy. And for some reason, most of my mom's clients are not comforted when she tells them their adolescent golden will calm down a little sometime between the age of 2 and 3. She just read a long article about steps to take to calm your dog, and most of her clients wouldn't be comforted by those either. They have jobs and kids and lives, and most don't set aside as much time as it requires to teach an overactive dog how to calm down.

So here are a few tips for calming your dog that we hope won't take too much of your busy schedule:
  1. This isn't exactly a training tip, but research breeds before getting a puppy. Don't impulse buy. Find out what the exercise requirements are for this dog and don't buy if you don't have that kind of time. There are many low energy dogs, especially if you want to adopt older dogs.
  2. Exercise, exercise, exercise! Most dogs need at least two 40 minute sessions of full blown running daily in their adolescence. Don't think you have time for this? You'd be surprised. Jogging with the stroller? Take your dog. Many dogs who don't walk well can run surprisingly well, especially if you take a little time to train them. Instead of feeding in the food bowl, throw a piece of kibble down the hall and make your dog chase it. Do this with each piece of kibble. It won't take as long as it sounds. Do this with a tennis ball or toy. Play hide and seek. Hide treats in the yard for your dog to hunt. Be creative. You can find ways to exercise and stimulate your dog.
  3. If your dog is getting the proper amount of exercise, use timeouts for unruly behavior. Don't ever tolerate nipping, chewing or crazy zooming that knocks over all the house plants. Keep a small leash on your dog when you are home, and use that leash to lead your dog calmly to a timeout area, such as a bathroom, gated area or crate. It's not punishment if you aren't angry. It will just allow your pup to relax. Let him out when he's calm.
  4. Teach your dog a "wait" command and use it liberally. Teach "wait" at a door, on a bed or anywhere you can find a boundary. For example at the doorway, dog on a leash, say "wait." Take a step back but hold up your hand like a stop sign. If your dog moves forward, step into him purposefully so he will be forced back. Repeat this until your dog can stand calmly while you take a step back. Reward and release (such as "ok" or "go free.") Practice until you can walk several steps from your dog.
  5. Use the wait command for everything. Wait until your dog is calm before letting him have his food bowl. Wait until he calm before you pet him. Wait until he is calm before you put a leash on him for a walk. Wait until he is calm before you let him walk out the door. He must be calm to get anything he likes.
  6. When you see your dog being calm on his own, reward him. Give him a treat or sit next to him on the floor and give him the good belly rubs. So often dogs get attention when they are acting up and get ignored when calm. Switch that thinking!
Not all of you will be so lucky as to get a Chubbs as your next pet. However, with a little consistency and patience, your dog might come closer to achieving that level of perfection. Good luck!

Love, Chubbs

Thursday, May 5, 2011

Accepting Strangers

It has been well-documented in this blog that I don't like new people. According to my mom, I'm not the only one. Many dogs are afraid of new people and don't really want a stranger reaching over their heads to pet them. So how do you get your dog to interact with strangers?

In 2009, my mom taught me how to touch. While this trick in itself can be a huge benefit with reactive dogs, giving them something else to do when they want to bark, it can also teach them to interact with regular visitors.

Once your dog can confidently touch, either with the nose or paw, sit next to someone you want your dog to get to know. Allow your dog to sit on the side opposite the scary person and have him practice touch with you. Keep the sessions short and allow your dog to escape when he gets too nervous. This is a really difficult skill to learn, so sessions shouldn't be any longer than a few minutes. Give lots of treats!

Once your dog can do this easily, start the next session the same way, but have the strangers hand touching yours. Your dog will still be touching your hand, but your hand will be connected to the stranger. Again, keep sessions only a few minutes and reward with your dog's favorite treats.

When your dog is comfortable at this level, allow the stranger to put his/her hand on top of yours so your dog is actually touching the stranger's hand. Treats and commands still come from you.

After your dog can comfortably excel at this level, move your dog into the sit position in front of you rather than beside you. This will move him closer to the stranger, so if he isn't quite ready yet, slow down. Move back to step one where your dog touches your hand, not the stranger's. Continue at this level until your dog is comfortable and then add the stranger's hand again, first underneath yours, then ontop of yours. Commands and treats still come from you.

Once your dog has successfully touched the stranger's hand ontop of yours sitting in front of him/her, you're ready to repeat all of the steps but with the stranger giving the commands and treats. So begin with your dog sitting at your side, touching your hand, but when commanded by the stranger, who will then give the treat. Work through all of the steps again (this may move more quickly than the first time) before letting your dog interact with just the stranger. If your dog ever gets frightened, you're moving too quickly.

Only once your dog can interact with the stranger happily in this way can the stranger ever try to pet your dog. And remember, not over the head! Encourage the stranger to pet the chest or sides of your dog first.

I know you're all afraid of me, but if anyone wants to work through these steps with me, let my mom know. She's always looking for me to make new friends. I, on the other hand, would prefer if you all would just leave me alone. (And take Chubbs with you!)

Love, Muggsy

Monday, February 28, 2011

Surfing the Counter

One of the more common things our mom gets called in to fix is called counter surfing, or stealing things, usually food, off counters, tables etc. We've never been allowed to do this but man, it sounds fun! Mom always brags that she can drop bacon on the floor, tell us all to leave it and we will, even though she can't do anything about it if we eat it. This is true. We listen to that "leave it" command. So how does that happen?

Well, first, you just teach it in the hand. Get a handful of treats. Give one to your dog and say "take it." Repeat at random. Then, close your fist and say "leave it." Keep the fist right by your dog's nose. Don't pull it away or that will cue your dog to do the right thing inadvertently. Keep your fist by your dog's nose no matter what he does. He will probably bark, paw, nip and lick. When he finally pulls away from your fist and looks up at you, praise and give the treat. If he offers a different polite behavior, such as backing away and sitting, hold the treat up to your eyes before rewarding. Practice this until you can hold a treat in your flat palm without your dog taking it.

Then, teach it from the ground. Toss some treats on the ground, saying "take it." Then, put one right by your shoe, say "leave it" and cover it with your shoe. Wait for your dog to look at you. Then, REWARD FROM YOUR HAND. This is important because eventually, you will be telling your dog to leave things you don't want him to have, such as cigarette butts and cat poop (yum!). Practice this until you can put a treat on the ground and your dog will leave it on command without you covering it.

Then, start practicing with everything your dog might steal: human food, tennis shoes, underwear, whatever. Practice it on walks. If your dog keeps trying to pull you toward something, such as cat poop, keep walking away from it. As soon as your dog looks at you instead of the thing, reward with a huge treat.

Now, you're ready to practice with the tables and kitchen counters. While you are training this command, don't allow your dog access to anything he might steal. Use baby gates to block the kitchen. Keep shoes put away in the closet. Then, when you are around, you have many training opportunities.

Use the leave it command any time your dog is interested in the counter. Reward if your dog looks at you rather than jumping on the counter. If he jumps on the counter, put him in timeout.

Once your dog is a pro around the counters, you have to put him to the test. Put food on the counter and leave the room. Just make sure you can see your dog. When he starts to show interest, jump around the corner and yell "leave it." Repeat this a couple of times until your dog thinks you are always watching.

This is how we learned not to counter surf. Our mom will make her lunch, set it on a TV tray that we can easily knock over and leave the room for several minutes. We don't touch her stuff. And this was what she did. So try it with your dogs if you want to ruin their lives as ours have apparently been ruined. Happy training! Love, Muggsy and Chubbs

Wednesday, February 23, 2011

Getting Old

My dad's parents visited this week, and both commented on how much older I looked than the last time they saw me. Popop said it broke his heart. Way to make a girl feel good. Yes, I have more gray hair. I'm thinner. I'm also sleeping more and have trouble hearing. But all of that is normal. All of the dogs in this house are considered "senior." I'm almost 11, Muggsy is almost 10 and Chubbs is almost 9.

We have already talked about the importance of yearly senior exams in this blog, but I can't stress that enough. Imagine being 70 and going to the doctor every seven years! Don't skip. But there are plenty of changes that we will be going through which are perfectly normal.

The most notable is slower metabolism. We don't have the energy we used to. In fact, Muggsy and Chubbs both have arthritis in their joints, which slows them even more. However, we still need exercise. The best way to exercise us is less exercise more frequently. And be consistent. We are no longer at the age where you can skip a couple of walks and then take us for a huge hike during the weekend. We can't handle that! But the less active we are, the more our muscle mass deteriorates, so keep us active!

We also struggle to adjust to temperature extremes. So when we're out walking, be on the lookout for signs of heat stroke. And add a blanket to our bed on cold evenings.

Our immunity decreases as we get older, just as with humans. However, this doesn't mean to give us extra vaccinations. In fact, our bodies might respond negatively to them at this age. Instead, get us a titer. If you've been giving us vaccinations our whole life, it's likely that we have the immunity. Ask your veterinarian if you are unsure what to do.

Senior dogs also have decrease function in heart, lungs, kidney, bladder and liver. This is normal, but be sure to have a senior blood panel run each year to make sure everything is working as it should. This makes it harder for us to eliminate toxins, so be careful what you feed us and what medicines you give. A lot of foods have preservatives, dyes and other gross stuff. We don't need that. Give us healthy food that contains only protein, vegetables and healthy grains. No corn or meat byproducts. We're too old for that junk food!

We also experience gastrointestinal slowdown, which makes teeth cleanings more important. However, no anesthesia, please. If your dog can't attend the anesthesia-free cleanings, brush the teeth at home every day or two. Or do what my mom does: Give us raw bones or an apple daily. Both clean the teeth. She never brushes, and the vet always compliments our beautiful teeth!

Guess what else: Dogs can even get Alzheimer's. So watch for changes in your dog's personality. If there is a sudden change, such as confusion, aggression or sudden phobias, consult your veterinarian. We don't like them, but they become our best friends as we get older!

We senior dogs rule, but we are a lot of work. Take care of us, and we'll love you longer. Love, Fenway

Tuesday, February 1, 2011

Getting Groomed

Being this good-looking takes work. I get that. So I'm very patient when Mom wants to brush and bathe me. Muggsy and Fenway are not. They are both afraid of baths. They should have been properly taught to accept grooming as puppies, but Mom wasn't a dog trainer then.

I'm not afraid of very many things, but I wasn't introduced to a blow dryer until I was 6. Suddenly, I'm up on a table at a UShampooch, a do-it-yourself dog wash, and there's warm air blowing on me. I got a little upset. I tried to jump off the table and bit at the strange air. This reminded my mom that socialization never truly stops. So she taught me how to tolerate the hair dryer.

She started by using the dryer only a little and rewarding me when I stood still for her while drying. At first, I could only tolerate a few seconds before I needed a break. She tried to be really patient with me. I would often leave the grooming place pretty wet. Thank goodness it's always warm in Southern California!

Socialization is a slow process, but if you don't push your dog past his threshold, it does work. I now allow her to dry me as long as she wants as long as she doesn't get too close to my face. We accomplished this by working together. She started at the place where I was least scared. When I started to get wiggly, which told her that I was about to attempt escape, she would take a break and reward me. She praises me the whole time. Nothing wrong with that. I love admirers. I could handle it for a little longer each time. Now, I know that a part of looking this good is the dryer. And I tolerate it just fine.

So be patient with your dog, move at his pace, and see how well he can do! Love, Chubbs

Tuesday, January 18, 2011

Down to the Ground

I know it's been a long time since we've written. Mom has been in Thailand meeting tigers and elephants, and we were at home feeling neglected. I had to meet all these new people and be nice to them. It was awful, but Mom said I did perfectly. My reward is apparently a new training project.

My mom just recently read an article about a dog who had such a good recall that she ran in front of train because her owner misjudged the distance when calling and she died as a result. Any time my mom thinks about my death, she freaks out and takes on a new training project. That's exactly what this guy did, too. He realized that teaching his dog an emergency down would have solved the problem. My mom has never really focused on this but is thinking of adding it to her training repertoire and has decided to use me as a guinea pig.

To teach the emergency down, you first must teach your dog a down, obviously. I am already a pro at this. I learned it to perfection when she was trying to teach Chubbs, and I wanted to prove how much smarter I am (mission accomplished).

Once your dog can easily down, begin giving the command after taking one step further back. When your dog can do that, move back another step and then another.

Change the environment, such as practicing outside with a 30-foot long line.

Then, teach it from the heel. Tell your dog to down in mid-stride. If your has accomplished all the other steps, he should be able to do this quickly. Then, begin practicing when your dog is ahead of you. Then when he's running around the yard. If you practice in enough situations, you should be able to get your dog to drop in any environment for any reason.

This will keep your dog from running into traffic, running off a cliff while chasing a bird or running in front of a train because you're too slow on your recall command. Obviously, this could save his life. Thus, my mom has made it a 2011 goal. Here's hoping your parents aren't so crazy.

Love, Muggsy